Costume Shops and Storage: Machinery, Chemical, Fire, and Ergonomic Safety in the Performing Arts
The costume shop is one of the most chemically and physically hazardous work environments in a performing arts facility — a fact that surprises many people who associate hazardous work only with the scene shop or electrical systems. Costume construction involves sewing machinery, cutting tools, steam equipment, hot irons, chemical dyes and adhesives, spray treatments, and the particular challenge of storing large quantities of fabric and completed costumes safely. Understanding the hazards of costume shop work and the practices that control them is essential for anyone responsible for a costume program.
Sewing Machinery Hazards
Industrial sewing machines, sergers, and coverstitch machines operate at high speed and create specific hazards that differ from domestic sewing equipment. The needle creates a puncture hazard; the presser foot and feed dogs create a draw-in hazard. Industrial machines cycle significantly faster than domestic machines, providing less reaction time if a hand strays into the needle area. Safety requirements for sewing machinery:
- Needle guards: many industrial machines can be equipped with needle guards that reduce (but do not eliminate) the risk of accidental needle contact. Where available, needle guards should be installed and used.
- Eye protection: sewing machine needles break, and needle fragments can travel at significant velocity. Eye protection should be available and worn, particularly when sewing heavy materials, leather, or multiple fabric layers.
- Hair and loose clothing: long hair and loose sleeves or scarves must be secured to prevent entanglement in the machine’s moving parts. This is particularly important around sergers, which have exposed cutting blades and multiple thread paths.
- Machine maintenance: industrial sewing machines must be lubricated and maintained per the manufacturer’s schedule. A machine that skips stitches, runs erratically, or requires excessive pressure to sew is indicating a maintenance problem that increases injury risk.
Cutting Hazards
Fabric cutting involves a range of sharp instruments, from hand shears to rotary cutters to electric cutting machines. Each presents specific hazards:
- Hand shears and fabric scissors: long-bladed shears used in costume work can cause serious lacerations. Shears must be kept in a designated location (never loose on a work surface where they can be grabbed inadvertently) and must be passed blade-first-closed to another person.
- Rotary cutters: rotary cutters have an exposed circular blade that is extremely sharp and requires relatively little pressure to cause a deep laceration. Rotary cutters must have their blade guard engaged whenever the cutter is set down, even briefly. Cut-resistant gloves should be worn when using rotary cutters.
- Electric cutting machines (straight-knife and round-knife cutters): used in high-volume costume shops, electric cutting machines have a reciprocating or rotating blade that is fast and difficult to stop quickly. Only trained operators should use electric cutting machinery. Chain-mail gloves are worn by professional operators.
- Seam rippers: while individually low-risk, seam rippers cause a significant number of puncture wounds in costume shops. They should be used with controlled, deliberate motion — not with force that could slip the tool.
Steam and Heat Hazards
Steam irons, steamers, and steam presses (also called steam boards or steam tables) are used throughout the costume shop. Steam at atmospheric pressure is at 100 degrees Celsius (212 degrees Fahrenheit) — sufficient to cause immediate full-thickness burns on contact with skin. The water vapor from steam traps body heat and can cause burns over a larger surface area than dry heat contact. Steam equipment safety:
- Always point the steam vents away from yourself and others before triggering steam.
- Allow steam equipment to cool to a safe temperature before cleaning or moving it.
- Inspect steam hoses and connections regularly for leaks. A steam hose leak directs pressurized hot steam unpredictably.
- Keep steam equipment out of pedestrian paths in the costume shop to prevent contact burns from bumping into hot surfaces.
- Know the location of cold water sources (sink) for immediate first aid for steam burns.
Chemical Hazards in the Costume Shop
Fabric Dyes
Fabric dyes used in costume shops range from household fiber-reactive dyes (Procion, Rit) to professional acid dyes for protein fibers (wool, silk) to vat dyes and discharge agents. Chemical hazards vary by dye type:
- Fiber-reactive dyes (Procion MX type): the sodium carbonate (soda ash) used as a fixative is a strong base that is irritating to skin, eyes, and the respiratory tract. Dye powders must be weighed and mixed in a well-ventilated area with a properly fitted dust mask (minimum N95) to prevent inhalation of fine powder. Skin and eye contact with dye solution causes staining and potential sensitization.
- Acid dyes: used with an acid fixative (acetic acid, white vinegar, citric acid) and heat. The heating process releases acetic acid vapor in concentrations that can irritate the respiratory tract. Work with good ventilation. Avoid prolonged inhalation of acid dye steam.
- Discharge agents (bleach, thiourea dioxide, Jacquard Color Remover): discharge printing removes color from fabric. Sodium hypochlorite (bleach) is an oxidizing agent that creates irritating chlorine gas when mixed with ammonia or acids — never mix bleach with other chemicals. Use discharge agents with adequate ventilation.
Adhesives
Fabric adhesives, hot glue, contact cement, and theatrical millinery adhesives are used extensively in costume construction. Solvent-based contact cements (including some neoprene and rubber cements) contain toluene, hexane, or other volatile organic compounds with significant inhalation and fire hazards. Solvent-based adhesives must be used in ventilated conditions with respiratory protection appropriate to the specific solvent. Hot glue guns create burns from the hot adhesive — a common but painful injury in costume shops. Always use a glue gun stand and allow the adhesive tip to cool before handling.
Spray Treatments
Spray starch, fabric stiffeners, water repellents, anti-static sprays, and paint-on treatments are used in costume finishing. Aerosol spray products generate respirable droplets and propellant gases. Spraying should be done in a ventilated area, away from flame sources (many aerosol propellants are flammable), and the operator should avoid breathing the mist directly. Fluorinated water repellents (PFAS-containing products) are being phased out of many products due to environmental persistence concerns; check product labels and select alternatives where available.
Fire Hazards and Costume Storage
Fabric is a combustible material. A costume storage room containing hundreds of garments represents a significant fuel load. Fire safety requirements for costume storage:
- Automatic sprinkler protection: costume storage rooms that meet the square footage and fuel load thresholds in NFPA 13 (Standard for the Installation of Sprinkler Systems) require automatic sprinkler coverage. Verify with the facility’s fire marshal.
- Smoke detection: costume storage areas must have smoke detection integrated with the building fire alarm system.
- Clearance from heat sources: costumes must not be stored adjacent to boilers, steam pipes, or other high-temperature surfaces.
- Electrical safety: avoid running electrical cords through costume storage areas. Ensure storage lighting is appropriate for the combustible fuel load.
- Aisles: maintain clear aisles in costume storage for egress and for fire department access. Do not stack costumes to the point that they block the path to a fire suppression system component (sprinkler head, extinguisher).
- Separation: store particularly flammable materials (foam rubber, polyurethane foam, net and tulle) separately from the main costume collection or in enclosed cabinets where possible. Foam and net fabrics have extremely rapid flame spread rates.
Flame Treatment of Costumes
Many jurisdictions require that costumes and fabric used in theatrical performances be treated with a flame retardant to meet the requirements of NFPA 701 (Standard Methods of Fire Tests for Flame Propagation of Textiles and Films). The flame treatment requirements of NFPA 701 are enforced by local fire marshals and vary by jurisdiction and venue type. Requirements for flame treatment:
- Flame retardant treatments are not permanent: washing removes most topical flame retardants. Costumes must be retreated after each washing.
- Some fabrics cannot be effectively treated (100% polyester, vinyl, some synthetics). These fabrics may be prohibited in some applications.
- Treatment must be applied to the complete garment, not just selected parts.
- Documentation of treatment (product used, concentration, date, and who performed the treatment) may be required for fire marshal inspection.
Ergonomics in the Costume Shop
Costume shop work involves sustained periods of sitting at sewing machines, fine hand work (hand-sewing, beading, applique), and reaching across cutting tables. Ergonomic hazards include:
- Prolonged seated posture at sewing machines: adjust chair height so that arms are at a comfortable angle and feet rest flat on the floor or a footrest. Take regular stretch breaks.
- Cutting table height: cutting tables should be at a height that does not require sustained bending or over-reaching. Standard cutting tables are 36-40 inches high; adjust to the height of the primary users.
- Hand and wrist loading: sustained hand-sewing, especially with a thimble and thick fabrics, creates repetitive motion stress. Vary tasks and take hand rest breaks.
- Lifting: large, layered fabric bundles and loaded costume carts can be heavy. Use proper lifting technique and request assistance for heavy loads.
Key Takeaways
- Sewing machine needles break and propel fragments. Eye protection is appropriate when sewing heavy or multiple-layer materials.
- Rotary cutters must have the blade guard engaged every time the cutter is set down. Cut-resistant gloves are appropriate for rotary cutter use.
- Steam equipment produces burns rapidly. Point steam away from people before activating, and allow equipment to cool before moving it.
- Dye powders must be weighed and mixed in ventilated areas with a minimum N95 dust mask. Never mix bleach-based discharge agents with other chemicals.
- Flame treatment of costumes with a topical retardant must be redone after each washing. Verify jurisdiction-specific requirements with the local fire marshal.
- Costume storage represents a significant fuel load. Verify automatic sprinkler coverage, maintain clear aisles, and store high-flammability materials (foam, net/tulle) separately.
References
National Fire Protection Association. (2019). NFPA 701: Standard methods of fire tests for flame propagation of textiles and films. NFPA.
National Fire Protection Association. (2022). NFPA 13: Standard for the installation of sprinkler systems. NFPA.
Occupational Safety and Health Administration. (n.d.). Hazard communication. 29 CFR 1910.1200. U.S. Department of Labor.
McCann, M. (2008). Artist beware: The hazards in working with all art and craft materials (3rd ed.). Lyons Press.
Rossol, M. (2001). The artist’s complete health and safety guide (3rd ed.). Allworth Press.